I’m a keen ecigarette or ‘vaping’ enthusiast and now and then I’ll put up a few posts I find interesting or may help others.
I have had my Katady ePower box mod for about 10 months now and it’s been through the wars a bit (even run over by a car and it barely suffered a scratch!) to say the least but it’s held up well with my abuse. I’ve recently started ‘sub-ohming’ as well and primarily use a 0.5ohm atomiser of some type which I believe is what has lead to this issue where the display on the Katady shows ‘No Atomizer’. I’ve also seen a forum post where another user is experiencing the same problem here. I’m unsure whether mine is a v3 or v4 as I don’t think there’s much difference between them, except that the v4 has a flush 510 connector where the v3 (most likely my version) has the protruding 510 connector.
So here goes, you’ll need to disassemble your box mod to get access to the innards, this took me a while to figure out as I didn’t want to damage or break it but I got there in the end. On the back panel, along the top and bottom you’ll see two black plastic strips. These need to be removed:
Once you have removed those you’ll see a couple of screws which hold on the rear panel. When you have removed those, I found the best way to take the panel off was to prise out the 510 connector by putting a (preferably metal) atomiser or tank on it and carefully wiggling and pulling it out, take it easy here as you don’t want to rip the wire out that is attached inside. From there, you can then poke a thin screwdriver inside the hole at an angle towards the rear panel and push it from the inside and it’ll pop right out.
Now, onto the problem. In my case, there was a small wire at the top left which had melted and broken due to the low resistance of the Aspire Atlantis tank that I was using at the time, this wire is what connects the outside/negative of the 510 connector onto the circuit board inside. Why on earth Katady decided to use such a thin wire for this device is beyond me. This mod is capable of firing up to 35 watts at 0.5ohm so it should have been obvious to them that this wire was not adequate for the job, and considering the very thick cable used to connect the centre/positive pin, I just cannot imagine what they were thinking using something so small for the negative side.
In the picture above I’ve outlined the offending wire. You’ll notice it connects to the negative mounting pin of the USB port and onto a small screw which in turn goes into the metal casing. In the picture above you can’t see the break in the wire but it clearly shows the insulation is melted and the inner core exposed.
I removed this piece of wire (soldering iron required) and replaced it with something more suitable. I’ve so far only done a temporary fix with a piece of solid core wire from an ethernet cable I had laying around, it’s slightly thicker than the original but I’ll still replace it with a better one in the future. I found the most convenient way to do it was solder one end on the bottom where the original one was, loosen the screw slightly, loop the wire around the top of the screw and then solder the other end onto the other side of the USB port so in effect it’s got two thicknesses of my wire connecting it, then tighten the screw down on the wire. I haven’t yet taken a photo to show what I mean but I’ll update this post when I do the job properly.
If all has gone to plan, you should then be able to fit an atomizer and start using your device again!