Category: Uncategorised

Renaming video files from get_iplayer for easy import into Sonarr

There may become a time where someone wants to obtain some media from the popular get_iplayer application to add to their Sonarr library.

Sonarr doesn’t like importing such files by default because the season and episode numbers aren’t in a common format.

I couldn’t find any easily automated method to rename the files into a supported format online, so I’ve pieced together a small script to help achieve this quickly and easily.

I’m not a programmer, but do have enough experience to know roughly what a piece of code is doing so please bear this in mind with my script, it may not be perfect or perform all necessary functions but it should help you enough to get Sonarr to correctly recognise them and it can then rename appropriately upon import if your installation is set to do so.

This is made mostly by code samples found online with some minor modifications, your mileage may vary. This script is designed to run on media files for a single TV show at a time, not one large folder with multiple shows downloaded into it (mostly due to my future hopes/plans for the script).

Open up a new plaintext editor such as Notepad on Windows, then paste the following:

Set objFso = CreateObject("Scripting.FileSystemObject")
Set Folder = objFSO.GetFolder("X:\path-to-files")

For Each File In Folder.Files
    sNewFile = File.Name
    sNewFile = Replace(sNewFile,"_Series_"," - S0")
    if (sNewFile<>File.Name) then 
    end if


For Each File In Folder.Files
    sNewFile = File.Name
    sNewFile = Replace(sNewFile,"_-_","E")
    if (sNewFile<>File.Name) then 
    end if


For Each File In Folder.Files
    sNewFile = File.Name
    sNewFile = Replace(sNewFile,"._"," - ")
    if (sNewFile<>File.Name) then 
    end if


For Each File In Folder.Files
    sNewFile = File.Name
    sNewFile = Replace(sNewFile,"_"," ")
    if (sNewFile<>File.Name) then 
    end if


You should edit line two, to insert the path to your downloaded video files, you’ll need to do this for each new folder of media that you wish to rename, then save it as a vbscript file, for example “rename.vbs”.

Double-click it and accept any security warning to allow it to run and you should then see your media names with the common SxxExx naming format.

This script works by searching for and replacing certain values. It doesn’t account for all types of files downloaded through get_iplayer, for example it doesn’t recognise special episodes because their file name doesn’t include the word “Series”.

I may improve this over time, I would like to add the following:

  • Recognise special episodes and move them to a subfolder for manual renaming
  • Organise files into subfolders by season for easier copy/paste into your media library
  • Scan recursive media folders with multiple shows

For now though, I just wanted to get it working well enough for my needs which it does, and share it with anyone else who may find it useful.

MPs Awarded £10,000 Expenses to ‘Work from Home’

I’m not a writer, but I like to moan.

Today my moaning is directed at IPSA, the regulatory body for MP’s pay in the UK. They have now announced that they’re allowing MPs to claim £10,000 to set themselves up for working from home. I’ll cite references where possible but make no guarantees to the accuracy of my content.

With the world being on Pandemic lockdown right now, the majority of the population have converted fine to working from home. Everyone has a table to sit at, their employers provide laptops in most cases to use for work, most people have an internet connection of some sort. It boggles me that anyone is “not set up” for working remotely.

Presumably, some of the things one may need to work remotely could be, a table to sit at, a laptop, a printer, electricity, heating (as stated in other articles) and some stationary. Most of these items many people would already have such as a company laptop but lets say you need to kit-out someone with everything they *need*, not want, need.

  • Laptop plus software licenses, a generous £800 and should be provided by the employer, not the employee.
  • A printer, basic inkjet models can be found for £20, but lets assume they need something a bit heavier duty but still suitable for home use and assume a £150 laser printer.
  • Electricity, remember as HMRC rules on expenses state, you can only claim for any *extra* usage as a result of working from home, not the full amount. So let’s say you run the laptop 24 hours a day as an extreme example. According to the calculations here this would cost only around 15p per day. Add to that the costs of your laser printer which has a very low standby current, at a rough generous guess allow 10p per day. That’s less than £8 per month assuming you worked 7 days a week,
  • Another point mentioned is heating. But remember HMRC states that only the *additional* costs as a result of home-working can be claimed. If your family is in lockdown as they’re supposed and in the home, chances are it’s already heated acceptably and so will not cost any extra. Plus, we’re well into the Spring season seeing warmer temperatures anyway so they don’t need heating at all. No claim justifiable for this.
  • Stationary. Headed paper would/should be provided by the employer, so that’s free. Maybe you need a couple of note pads, box of pens, some plain paper and post-its. I think £20 a month should easily cover this.
  • Furniture? Who hasn’t got a table and chair in their home already? No need for a new one certainly not at the tax-payers expense.
  • Internet, for those living in the dark ages without internet, Vodafone offer a 76Meg fibre internet including line rental for just £23 a month. It includes a £70 Amazon voucher you can spend on your stationary too!
  • Telephones. A mobile is no doubt already provided and used most often. But say you want a landline too. I’d assume this would be a VoIP phone to tie in with the Gov security systems so lets assume a generous £200 for a fancy handset and £15/month for an unlimited cal subscription. If they can’t do it for that price they’re doing something wrong.
  • Transport expenses should be banned during the period because they’re supposed to be working from home and isolating, setting an example for the nation.

So all in all, assuming the highest amounts I have quoted here which are very generous, that adds up to £1236, that includes one-off costs as well so the monthly figure will be a lot less.

MPs need to be given the same expense allowances as everyday people like you and me. IPSA, as an ‘independent’ regulator who were setup to prevent abuse of the system, need to stop allowing and encouraging MPs to abuse the system.

Warning: eBay Listing Work From Home Job Scam Helen at Globaltrex Wayne Johnson Facebook

I recently noticed a job opportunity making the rounds on social media. See below:

Being in need of work myself, I thought I would respond and see where it went. I emailed the address as advised and told them about my previous eBay history:

I then shortly received the following response:

Initially I only noticed the one spelling mistake “spear” instead of “spare” and the occasional lack of capital letters so it’s not as bad as most scam emails. Notice that for such a successful company, they don’t say who they are. Alarm bells also rang when the income example they gave included a item valued at £500, and that how it worked involved receiving money myself and passing it on to them upon sale. Whilst I haven’t heard of a scam like this, it didn’t take me long to piece together a scenario which would leave me out of pocket so I then went on to ask a few more questions. A Google search on their email address and “Globaltrex” name also revealed absolutely nothing. Had no one fallen for it so far? And why would such a “successful company” not be listed anywhere? I checked out the email headers to see where the message was sent from and it turned out to be a iPhone on the O2 UK network which added a little hope, at least it was in the UK and not Nigeria for once!

She duly responded to my questions:

Notice how it starts off with a defensive statement “Hun I assure you”. If it was legitimate, a person would offer up some proof straight away not just say “I assure you”. A large successful business would also have a website and a registered business, and as it’s a eBay business they would presumably have a store with a proven feedback record as well. She avoided the topic and did not provide any proof at all and simply offered to move on and find someone else. I then did some searching and eventually found a useful combination of search terms which revealed hundreds of results relating to this scam, even some which had made it onto the UK JobCenter website! See for yourself here. I let her know about my findings and that I was not happy to proceed. She was of course quick to brush it off and find another victim.

Stay safe people! Hopefully this post will end up in a Google search and prevent at least one other person from falling victim to this scam. Let me know in the comments if you found this post useful.

[Solved] PayPal Balance Does Not Show as a Payment Option on eBay

Another quick post today that may help other people.

Today I was making an eBay purchase and I wished to partly fund this transaction with my PayPal balance and have the remainder taken from my primary card. This is something I’ve done a number of times before without issue but today it was just not showing within the eBay checkout as an option.

I worked out the issue for me, which was that my PayPal balance was held in US Dollars, but my primary currency here in the UK is British Pound and it seems PayPal will only use a balance for a purchase in that currency (buying an item in dollars would work, but when buying an item in British pounds it would not be converted or used automatically.

I found a quick and easy solution, if you login to your PayPal account on the main PayPal website, click on the “PayPal Balance” link on the left hand side, and it provides a useful conversion tool where you can select the currency of your balance, type in how much you want to convert, and choose which currency you want to convert it to. Once converted to your primary currency (or the currency of the item you are purchasing), it will then show the balance as a payment option within the eBay checkout process.

I was initially very stumped by this but I figured it out in the end so I hope this will help others.

Death of the Sony SmartBand SWR10

Sad to say that my Sony SmartBand SWR10 will soon be unusable once the battery has run down.

Today I went to charge my phone, and noticed the cable would not fit into my phone. Upon closer inspection it appears the metal shroud/surround for the USB charging port on the SWR10 has broken off and was stuck on the end of my micro USB cable. This was no case of carelessness or user error, I’m always incredibly careful with charging ports on all devices that I own and this is no exception. I also use high-quality USB cables and chargers from the likes of Anker as well which have proven to be flawless time and time again.

As the SWR10 is a sealed and waterproof unit, it does not look possible to repair this as all and the device will no longer charge despite the middle part of the connector still being in place. It’s a shame when things like this happen but undoubtedly something that one gets used to with modern technology getting smaller and smaller everything gets weaker and more delicate at the same time.

I guess I should now write a mini review of the product. My time with the Sony SmartBand SWR10 has been great, it has been hugely successful for my main use of it, the sleep monitoring, the software that accompanies it works very well indeed and easily runs on a non-Sony phones as well, I started off using it with my Sony Xperia Z2, but have since upgraded to a Samsung Galaxy S6 Edge and after downloading the required apps it connects first time and works as intended which is more than I can say for Samsung’s Gear Fit which absolutely refused to work on a Sony, or any non-Samsung phone. Overall, the SWR10 has been very useful and I haven’t even begun to use many of it’s features it is capable of so I’m sure many people would use it more to it’s full potential than me. Like everything though it’s not without it’s flaws, and the issue where it stops logging data is the main one of those flaws, luckily it’s easy, although inconvenient, to temporarily fix that issue. Battery life on it has been great and has remained at 6-7 days since it was brand new, dependent on use. I did find that using the vibrating alert for incoming calls is unsurprisingly a huge battery drain, if you receive many calls it’s worthwhile turning that feature off if you value a longer battery life.

Fix for Katady ePower v3 / v4 ‘Short!’, ‘Low Resistance!’, ‘No Atomizer!’ Error messages

I write this with hope that it will help someone else who has the same issues I have experienced with my Katady ePower v4 e-cigarette box mod, this may also apply to the v3 as well.

For a while now I’ve been getting issues with atomizer resistance readings being all over the place, one minute it’s fine, next minute it goes really high and you get a dry/burnt hit which isn’t pleasant to say the least. Occasionally it would also say ‘No Atomizer’, or ‘Short!’ as well.

In my case, this was all down to the 510 connector on the top of the mod. It can also be caused by a burnt out wire inside the device, if, after following this post you are still having the same issues, please see this post for an alternative fix.

The cause of my issues was partly due to the rubber insulating ring inside the connector having degraded due to ingress of e-liquid (gotta love CE4 atomizers for causing that, right!?) Right first off you will want to get a nice strong tank or large atomizer of some sort, preferably a metal one that you don’t care too much about as there is a small chance it could break (you have been warned!) and screw it onto the 510 connector. Then gently wiggle it side to side while pulling the 510 connector out of the main body of the device. Don’t pull too hard or when it comes out you will snap the wire connecting it. There’s no glue or other fixtures holding it in, it is purely a pressure fit.

Once that has come out, you’ll have about half an inch of wire to work with. You may find some needle nose pliers useful for this stage if you’ve got sausage fingers like me, you want to hold the wire where it comes out the bottom, and push it upwards out the top of the connector to expose the centre pin. You’ll then likely notice that there is a rubber grommet that the centre pin sits in to insulate it from the outside of the connector. In my case, this piece of rubber had degraded and just crumbled and came out in pieced when I pushed the pin up – that’s the issue.

A replacement rubber like this is likely not available for sale on it’s own, and wouldn’t be cost effective if it was. I would suggest an ideal replacement for it would be a small rubber ‘O’ ring which you can stretch over the top of the centre pin. Something like this should be available from most hardware stores, in the UK I would suggest going to Bunce’s Home Hardware where you can buy them individually for a few pence each. I wasn’t near a store at the time so I made do with what I had to hand and used a piece of a plastic zip-lock bag. By cutting a section of the thick zip’ part of the bag (just one half of it not the whole thing), trimming off any excess plastic from the sides until you’ve got a thick round-ish piece of plastic, measure the length required to sit around the inside of the 510 connector and again trim it to size. Lay it inside the connector and gently pull the centre pin back into it, making sure it sits central and straight within the connector. That’s it! All done!

As my ePower also had issues with the 510 connector sitting loosely and being wobbly within the mod as well, this was also contributing to my intermittent resistance readings. I grabbed some tin foil, thinner the better, I used a KitKat wrapper as I had one in the car at the time. Cut a thin strip about a quarter of an inch wide and about 1.5 inches long and wrap it around the base of the 510 connector, the part that pushes into the body of the ePower and use that as a shim to pad out the looseness in my case it took two full wraps of tin foil to hold it tight and solid in the body. Depending on how loose yours is you may need to trim up the foil if it is too tight. Once you’ve added the foil and pushed the connector back into the body you should be good to go.

For me, this made a huge difference to the quality of the vape giving more consistent results and my resistance readings are now spot on every time with no variation.

Let me know in the comments if this helped you and if you need anything explained in more detail I would be happy to do this too.

Happy vaping!


I thought I’d start with an introduction. My name’s Rob, I’m a keen technology and computing enthusiast and work as an IT consultant. Most of this blog will be dedicated to the things that interest me, general computing topics and my thoughts on new technology etc. I tend to ramble on a lot so my updates will sometimes be lengthy ones just to warn you!