I write this with hope that it will help someone else who has the same issues I have experienced with my Katady ePower v4 e-cigarette box mod, this may also apply to the v3 as well.
For a while now I’ve been getting issues with atomizer resistance readings being all over the place, one minute it’s fine, next minute it goes really high and you get a dry/burnt hit which isn’t pleasant to say the least. Occasionally it would also say ‘No Atomizer’, or ‘Short!’ as well.
In my case, this was all down to the 510 connector on the top of the mod. It can also be caused by a burnt out wire inside the device, if, after following this post you are still having the same issues, please see this post for an alternative fix.
The cause of my issues was partly due to the rubber insulating ring inside the connector having degraded due to ingress of e-liquid (gotta love CE4 atomizers for causing that, right!?) Right first off you will want to get a nice strong tank or large atomizer of some sort, preferably a metal one that you don’t care too much about as there is a small chance it could break (you have been warned!) and screw it onto the 510 connector. Then gently wiggle it side to side while pulling the 510 connector out of the main body of the device. Don’t pull too hard or when it comes out you will snap the wire connecting it. There’s no glue or other fixtures holding it in, it is purely a pressure fit.
Once that has come out, you’ll have about half an inch of wire to work with. You may find some needle nose pliers useful for this stage if you’ve got sausage fingers like me, you want to hold the wire where it comes out the bottom, and push it upwards out the top of the connector to expose the centre pin. You’ll then likely notice that there is a rubber grommet that the centre pin sits in to insulate it from the outside of the connector. In my case, this piece of rubber had degraded and just crumbled and came out in pieced when I pushed the pin up – that’s the issue.
A replacement rubber like this is likely not available for sale on it’s own, and wouldn’t be cost effective if it was. I would suggest an ideal replacement for it would be a small rubber ‘O’ ring which you can stretch over the top of the centre pin. Something like this should be available from most hardware stores, in the UK I would suggest going to Bunce’s Home Hardware where you can buy them individually for a few pence each. I wasn’t near a store at the time so I made do with what I had to hand and used a piece of a plastic zip-lock bag. By cutting a section of the thick zip’ part of the bag (just one half of it not the whole thing), trimming off any excess plastic from the sides until you’ve got a thick round-ish piece of plastic, measure the length required to sit around the inside of the 510 connector and again trim it to size. Lay it inside the connector and gently pull the centre pin back into it, making sure it sits central and straight within the connector. That’s it! All done!
As my ePower also had issues with the 510 connector sitting loosely and being wobbly within the mod as well, this was also contributing to my intermittent resistance readings. I grabbed some tin foil, thinner the better, I used a KitKat wrapper as I had one in the car at the time. Cut a thin strip about a quarter of an inch wide and about 1.5 inches long and wrap it around the base of the 510 connector, the part that pushes into the body of the ePower and use that as a shim to pad out the looseness in my case it took two full wraps of tin foil to hold it tight and solid in the body. Depending on how loose yours is you may need to trim up the foil if it is too tight. Once you’ve added the foil and pushed the connector back into the body you should be good to go.
For me, this made a huge difference to the quality of the vape giving more consistent results and my resistance readings are now spot on every time with no variation.
Let me know in the comments if this helped you and if you need anything explained in more detail I would be happy to do this too.