Month: August 2015

Fix for Katady ePower v3 / v4 ‘Short!’, ‘Low Resistance!’, ‘No Atomizer!’ Error messages

I write this with hope that it will help someone else who has the same issues I have experienced with my Katady ePower v4 e-cigarette box mod, this may also apply to the v3 as well.

For a while now I’ve been getting issues with atomizer resistance readings being all over the place, one minute it’s fine, next minute it goes really high and you get a dry/burnt hit which isn’t pleasant to say the least. Occasionally it would also say ‘No Atomizer’, or ‘Short!’ as well.

In my case, this was all down to the 510 connector on the top of the mod. It can also be caused by a burnt out wire inside the device, if, after following this post you are still having the same issues, please see this post for an alternative fix.

The cause of my issues was partly due to the rubber insulating ring inside the connector having degraded due to ingress of e-liquid (gotta love CE4 atomizers for causing that, right!?) Right first off you will want to get a nice strong tank or large atomizer of some sort, preferably a metal one that you don’t care too much about as there is a small chance it could break (you have been warned!) and screw it onto the 510 connector. Then gently wiggle it side to side while pulling the 510 connector out of the main body of the device. Don’t pull too hard or when it comes out you will snap the wire connecting it. There’s no glue or other fixtures holding it in, it is purely a pressure fit.

Once that has come out, you’ll have about half an inch of wire to work with. You may find some needle nose pliers useful for this stage if you’ve got sausage fingers like me, you want to hold the wire where it comes out the bottom, and push it upwards out the top of the connector to expose the centre pin. You’ll then likely notice that there is a rubber grommet that the centre pin sits in to insulate it from the outside of the connector. In my case, this piece of rubber had degraded and just crumbled and came out in pieced when I pushed the pin up – that’s the issue.

A replacement rubber like this is likely not available for sale on it’s own, and wouldn’t be cost effective if it was. I would suggest an ideal replacement for it would be a small rubber ‘O’ ring which you can stretch over the top of the centre pin. Something like this should be available from most hardware stores, in the UK I would suggest going to Bunce’s Home Hardware where you can buy them individually for a few pence each. I wasn’t near a store at the time so I made do with what I had to hand and used a piece of a plastic zip-lock bag. By cutting a section of the thick zip’ part of the bag (just one half of it not the whole thing), trimming off any excess plastic from the sides until you’ve got a thick round-ish piece of plastic, measure the length required to sit around the inside of the 510 connector and again trim it to size. Lay it inside the connector and gently pull the centre pin back into it, making sure it sits central and straight within the connector. That’s it! All done!

As my ePower also had issues with the 510 connector sitting loosely and being wobbly within the mod as well, this was also contributing to my intermittent resistance readings. I grabbed some tin foil, thinner the better, I used a KitKat wrapper as I had one in the car at the time. Cut a thin strip about a quarter of an inch wide and about 1.5 inches long and wrap it around the base of the 510 connector, the part that pushes into the body of the ePower and use that as a shim to pad out the looseness in my case it took two full wraps of tin foil to hold it tight and solid in the body. Depending on how loose yours is you may need to trim up the foil if it is too tight. Once you’ve added the foil and pushed the connector back into the body you should be good to go.

For me, this made a huge difference to the quality of the vape giving more consistent results and my resistance readings are now spot on every time with no variation.

Let me know in the comments if this helped you and if you need anything explained in more detail I would be happy to do this too.

Happy vaping!

Katady ePower v3/v4 Box Mod ‘No Atomizer’ Repair

I’m a keen ecigarette or ‘vaping’ enthusiast and now and then I’ll put up a few posts I find interesting or may help others.

I have had my Katady ePower box mod for about 10 months now and it’s been through the wars a bit (even run over by a car and it barely suffered a scratch!) to say the least but it’s held up well with my abuse. I’ve recently started ‘sub-ohming’ as well and primarily use a 0.5ohm atomiser of some type which I believe is what has lead to this issue where the display on the Katady shows ‘No Atomizer’. I’ve also seen a forum post where another user is experiencing the same problem here. I’m unsure whether mine is a v3 or v4 as I don’t think there’s much difference between them, except that the v4 has a flush 510 connector where the v3 (most likely my version) has the protruding 510 connector.

So here goes, you’ll need to disassemble your box mod to get access to the innards, this took me a while to figure out as I didn’t want to damage or break it but I got there in the end. On the back panel, along the top and bottom you’ll see two black plastic strips. These need to be removed:

Remove These

 

Once you have removed those you’ll see a couple of screws which hold on the rear panel. When you have removed those, I found the best way to take the panel off was to prise out the 510 connector by putting a (preferably metal) atomiser or tank on it and carefully wiggling and pulling it out, take it easy here as you don’t want to rip the wire out that is attached inside. From there, you can then poke a thin screwdriver inside the hole at an angle towards the rear panel and push it from the inside and it’ll pop right out.

Now, onto the problem. In my case, there was a small wire at the top left which had melted and broken due to the low resistance of the Aspire Atlantis tank that I was using at the time, this wire is what connects the outside/negative of the 510 connector onto the circuit board inside. Why on earth Katady decided to use such a thin wire for this device is beyond me. This mod is capable of firing up to 35 watts at 0.5ohm so it should have been obvious to them that this wire was not adequate for the job, and considering the very thick cable used to connect the centre/positive pin, I just cannot imagine what they were thinking using something so small for the negative side.

Melted Wire

In the picture above I’ve outlined the offending wire. You’ll notice it connects to the negative mounting pin of the USB port and onto a small screw which in turn goes into the metal casing. In the picture above you can’t see the break in the wire but it clearly shows the insulation is melted and the inner core exposed.

I removed this piece of wire (soldering iron required) and replaced it with something more suitable. I’ve so far only done a temporary fix with a piece of solid core wire from an ethernet cable I had laying around, it’s slightly thicker than the original but I’ll still replace it with a better one in the future. I found the most convenient way to do it was solder one end on the bottom where the original one was, loosen the screw slightly, loop the wire around the top of the screw and then solder the other end onto the other side of the USB port so in effect it’s got two thicknesses of my wire connecting it, then tighten the screw down on the wire. I haven’t yet taken a photo to show what I mean but I’ll update this post when I do the job properly.

If all has gone to plan, you should then be able to fit an atomizer and start using your device again!